News from D3s0l4ti0n


























  1. If you need more speed and you've maxxed out a 12t brushed motor then the only logical step is brushless you can get a ESC and motor combo for 80 to 130 that will give you all the power you want and it's an easy swap brushed motors are pretty weak nowadays

  2. When I plug it in, I ge the regular blue blinking & then just a red blinking. I type the command & the red light stops blinking

  3. In the receiver tab on betaflight theres a bind Rx button click it then put your remote into bins mode frsky x2 is the one you want

  4. There used to be some whoops on spektrum but it's not a good protocol for quadcopters there's much better options if you get your self a good 4in1 transmitter like a radiomaster tx16s you can bind all your planes to it to along with your quads and add other control protocols with the expansion bay I mainly fly quads but I do have a night timber and a f-16edf jet with spektrum asx3 receivers in them I have bound up to my tx16s the hall effect gimbals are way better to me than anything I've used cant stand potentiometer gimbals

  5. I've kinda just ignored it for the longest time because I don't do tiny parts or anything intricate, but now I wanted to take a swing at making a battleship game with little pegs that need to be straight. unfortunately messing with flow, temp settings and z offset really hasn't gotten me anywhere, so any help would be appreciated.

  6. Excessive bed temp and to high of nozzle temp can cause elephants foot also to close to the bed on initial layers

  7. Check AliExpress I've had good luck finding hard to find arms there I'm still able to get arms for my iflight xl5 tru x frame

  8. That looks like a sub / surround your pumping power into the front left speaker output and possibly fried the output, that's not a input it would be labeled for the sub but those terminals are front left and front right and left rear and right rear outputs unless there more than just the sub in there

  9. Thanks for your advice but to each their own I guess. Id rather try to minimize whatever damage I can and if that means trying this setup then so be it.

  10. Compared to how much that all costed it's cheaper to have spare body's on hand skid plates are meh to my Maxx is on 6s does 65 70 and it's great fun that extra weight will eventually cause issues

  11. yeah just got a 6200 mah so i don’t have to worry about the other one exploding if i charge it

  12. If I buy the jumper t pro I can fly this drone an my big one ?

  13. Yes if you replace the receiver in the big drone with a elrs receiver

  14. The 4in1 with a elrs module is more expensive it would be cheaper to just swap the receiver on his big drone

  15. After watching the video it look like your getting disconnects check antennas

  16. What version of betaflight is it on I had this issue and it was related to bf 4.3 before it released it's official version it was the SPI receiver not playing nice with bf 4.3, also check your cpu usage at the bottom of betaflight if it's getting over loaded this can happen to,

  17. 2nd from the left is my go to for small stuff 18g to 30g 4th from the left is my go to for 14g to 18g 12g to 8g with one of the big tips but I mostly use 4th from the left for most everything and only change if I I'm having issues pushing enough heat or pad is to small

  18. True although getting something with ducts is a huge investment compared to just printing these attachments. And I agree with the snagging, these are intended to protect it during landings

  19. Honest the ducts are holding you back props are cheap if you break a prop just replace it, when I first started flying I wanted ducts to but I realized pretty quick that they do more harm than good they add excess weight and change the way it flies the lighter the better, I just stock up on props I like so if I break one I just replace it

  20. To me it looks like the mount is meant to split apart in a certain section (two narrower layers visible in pic2). You probably have to cut it apart there, put the antenna in, and then hold it together using zipties in the grooves. That's my guess at least.

  21. Check that the pins that hold the steering block are in place properly it'll slightly shift it and it will turn funny also check your diff case a cracked case can cause this issue

  22. Also posting a video of the noise helps diagnose it different noises are caused by different things and make vastly different sounds

  23. You have to have your telemetry and subs on the same uart so either put both on uart q or both on uart 3 using the tx and rx pads of either uart 1 or uart 3

  24. Don't waste your time printing drone frames. They will explode on the first crash or warp in the heat whichever one comes first. On top of that they are heavier than carbon fiber and have worse flight characteristics and gyro noise characteristics.

  25. If your trying to do big quads 5 inch and up 3d printed is not very good and freestyle is okayish where 3d printed frames shine is 4inch and under long range and small freestyle in carbon fiber infused nylon or petg or some of the more robust filaments they will fly you just need to understand the use case and not expect it to be like a carbon fiber drone

  26. lol, no those are the differences from one cell to all the other eg one cell at 3.8v and the rest at 4.2v. i bought them from getfpv and they came at storage voltage (3.8v)

  27. Okay wait you said they were on storage voltage storage voltage should be 3.8 to 3.9 per cell if you charged them to full 4.2 v and left them to sit you damaged them you should never leave a lipo fully charged for more than a few days at the most

  28. I didn't leave them at 4.2v per cell for any amount of time, not sure where you're getting that. I plugged them in today and noticed they were different and then charged up to 4.2 and the difference between cells got worse.

  29. You didn't state you charged them even thou the cells are out of wack they can still balance them and.it should be fine

  30. This is the reason I went to elrs on everything frsky has to many issues broken to many quads from fail-safes or just not working properly

  31. I built my own with a run cam phoenix 2 nano cam and a 850mw vtx and I have stock props which are 3.5x2x3 and some 3.5x2.5x3 and my personal faves are the 3.5x2.8x3 avian props you lose about 3 mins of flight time on a 850mah but it Handles insanely well and corners and flips and rolls are snappy and fast tis a little cruiser with insane handling

  32. I've been trying to get a hold of the avain props only seem to be able to find the hq prop in 3.5

  33. I meant the emax scimitar sorry I have so many props i lose track

  34. https://www.racedayquads.com/products/emax-scimitar-3-5x2-8x3-tri-blade-3-prop-4-pack-1-5mm

  35. The balance lead is definitely in the radio as it turns on. I’ve used a cell checker on my 2s and it reads that one cell is at 0.0v. There are only two wires coming from the Lipo and are plugged into the outside ports of the balance lead.

  36. That's a bad lipo a cell should never read below 3.2 volts if it does it's dead Jim time for a new lipo

  37. The wrong side of the ball bearing or the wrong side of the diff?

  38. You put the shim on the side with the gear so it makes the gears mesh closer right now your making the gears farther apart and will strip out you diff gears

  39. Smart audio is not for sound it is so you can control the vtx settings with betaflight

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