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  1. You don't sharpen a bayonet, they aren't meant for cutting and aren't tempered the same way knives are. They're an obsolete relic from a bygone age of warfare designed exclusively for poking, fucking with them just ruins a good collector's item.

  2. Well, it definitely doesn’t help the overall toughness. I’ve seen worse. But I would still want a replacement.

  3. Yes. They’re a monolithic polymer shell that was made by a company called “Activ”. The goal was to create shotgun shells that never rusted or corroded. The primers and end crimp originally had a sealant around them, essentially making them completely weather proof.

  4. Had a rifle lung shot doe go 20 yards without spilling the first drop of blood. Was kind of worried since the shooter was my 11 year old cousin but he was adamant he made a good shot. After a 30 min wait I walked in the direction she went after the shot and there she laid beside a puddle of bright red blood 40 yards into the wood line.

  5. Yep. I’ve seen deer hit with a 2” broadhead through both lungs and still have to be tracked almost 200 yards and left very little blood. I learned that day to never assume anything.

  6. Congratulations. You definitely have persistence if you hunted a full year without being successful.

  7. Only issue I can see is that you're adding a new potential failure point to work loose, & reducing the thread contact by a bit; also makes the stock sit proud (high) when it's against your body, so it'll project up past your shoulder if it's tight - and shouldering it while slung is near impossible. (assuming this is your rear sling point; if not, then the muzzle sits very low)

  8. This would be the front sling point. I’m using the one already at the rear of the stock as the rear sling point.

  9. Ahhhh... I have secondary sling point on one of mine, similar location, but it makes the muzzle sit very low when slung, as I mentioned; so great for keeping the muzzle nice n agile to swing quickly, but I like to have the front position for extended use...helps bring the balance back rearward.

  10. Right. My primary reason for even having a sling on this particular shotgun is weapon retention. So how useful it is for carrying the gun while slung isn’t really that important to me. Having free range of motion in tight spaces without needing to swim in and out of the sling is important.

  11. u really cant say ur a flashlight guy if u only recognize olight from that chart. thats like saying im a cellphone guy, but i only know 2 brands, apple and samsung.

  12. I’m a flashlight guy, I’m just not a Chinese-made flashlight fan. Besides Fenix. I do like Fenix.

  13. I would be able to see burned steel on the broken surface, right?

  14. Not really until chunks are falling off. The forge scale hides it. Just forging too much when it's too hot near forge welding temps can make it break apart too without actually burning it.

  15. No. The steel doesn’t even have to be burned, just struck with a hammer excessively while at close to forge welding temps

  16. The bottom of the plate would suggest RMR/HS507C, but the actually slide milling lacks the front lugs that the bottom of the plate has cutouts for….

  17. It is an Aluminum alloy. They were painted black from the factory. (I think it was paint) The finish was worn off for as long as I can remember hunting with my dad. So when I restored it, I wanted it to look good while still retaining the look of "my dad's gun". The reciever is done in satin aluminum and Graphite Black cerakote, up close it has a slight worn look. , and the Barrel bolt are midnight blue cerakote to replicate bluing. The but stock isn't in the picture because it doesn't match the finish on the foreend. I sourced them from two different places. They are close, but I'll refinish them in the future to match. (I have to learn about redoing stocks 1st)

  18. Well it looks fantastic. The midnight blue was a great choice. For the wood stocks, start with acetone and paper towel and strip as much of the original finish off as possible before moving on to sanding. It’ll save you a lot of time and sandpaper. For any checkering, don’t try to sand it. Use acetone and a toothbrush and scrub it out. And after you’re done sanding, wipe the whole thing down with acetone again to make sure you got all the original finish out of the pores of the wood or else it’ll show up under the new finish. Hope that helps you somewhere down the line

  19. I love it. Only thing I don’t like is the gloss black coating. It looks too much like spray paint.

  20. You know it, 120 gr TTSX! Couldn't find them last year so I had to settle for 140s instead.

  21. May man. That’s all I hunt with anymore. 120 gr TAC-TX for 300 blackout. I do want to try them in .308 just to see if the petals stay intact or they break off at those velocities. Either way it’ll create a massive amount of damage.

  22. That's my next project for .308. Either they expand to 2.5x diameter, or petals break off like Cutting Edge, Hammer, Lehigh—all premium copper rounds designed to break up. Expansion below 2000fps, decent BC, what's not to like?

  23. Wasn't the 11-87 supposed to remedy the lighter load issues the 1100 magnum had and cycle both?

  24. Yes. It uses a spring clip that covers two extra gas ports that will vent gas outside the piston system after a certain pressure is reached so hypothetically when shooting light loads it will function normally like an 1100 with simple gas ports, and when shooting magnum loads it will vent excessive gas instead of it putting more unnecessary force into cycling the action.

  25. Don't do that hillbilly crap. Buy a new barrel.

  26. A new barrel literally costs more than what I paid for the gun. Like $400

  27. You need a TIG weld those up and drill again if you want to actually fix it permanently. Find a local welder, he'll probably charge you $10.

  28. That would be the proper way to fix it. I’ve got a TIG welder, but this is more of an experiment.

  29. Devcon makes a better product, in fact a whole line of products, better than JBW

  30. There’s a little clip that ships with Geissele triggers that goes on it that acts as an anti walk device. They probably didn’t use it. I’ve seen this quite often

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