News from mlee12382


























  1. https://github.com/NARUTOfzr/Neptune_3/issues/10

  2. These instructions make no sense. Has anyone actually done this? I don't want to start messing with wheel tensions when the only instructions say things like "3 wheels cannot have idle". Does that mean they are supposed to spin or not supposed to spin? The next line says "adjust appropriately" If I knew what appropriately was I wouldn't be reading the instructions would I?

  3. Agreed the Chinglish does make it harder to follow, basically I think it's saying that the side with the steppers "3" should be snug and not easy to spin freely, and the opposite side "4" should be slightly looser. You may also need to adjust some of the other screws and adjust the gantry for squareness to the frame. If you haven't already look for the CD leveling method on here, that may help some also.

  4. https://www.josephfairchiropractic.com/

  5. Awesome! Thank you! I knew there had to be a way to do it but none of my searches or browsing the example configs came up with anything . :)

  6. https://github.com/NARUTOfzr/Neptune_3/issues/10

  7. N3 pro is supposed to be direct drive, not sure if it will also have dual z but that would be nice. I've been told they're not developing dual extruder printers any more unfortunately.

  8. I tried tracing the wires last night but got lost in a mess of spaghetti, but from what I saw, I kinda want to say that the strain gauge is just feeding into one of the Z limit switch inputs, because there's two of those and only one x and y. That being said, it may just be feeding a 5v digital signal. I really want to dig into this and find out.

  9. The cr6 hotend mount is different and doesn't fit unfortunately. With the stock firmware only the strain gauge is compatible. BLTouch or the cheaper 3D Touch will work but need a modified firmware compile. The strain gauge has a separate control board mounted on the under side of the run-out sensor.

  10. Not 100% sure but I think it may still interface with the bltouch port and /or one if the endstop ports.

  11. https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html

  12. https://github.com/NARUTOfzr/Neptune_3/issues/10

  13. Have you checked in device manager to see if it's showing up? Maybe with a failed driver install?

  14. Have you verified that it's not just that specific roll of filament? Maybe it needs to be dried? Also try the tuning stuff already mentioned but if it's that specific spool you may just end up chasing your tail.

  15. This won't fix the problem, though it might help you get closer, go into bed Visualizer and adjust the resolution of the map so you can see the height differences easier, you have a 4mm range which is why it looks super flat, if you set it to -1 to 1 you will actually be able to see where there may be high and low spots.

  16. Hi mlee12382. Thanks for the tip, I will make that change and level again. Where do I see this setting in the plugin? Would it be Z Limits?

  17. Yeah I believe that's what it's called, it'll say -2,2 by default and you can set the range to whatever you want :) my total deviation is usually less than 0.3mm and I have my limits at -0.4,0.4 but you don't necessarily need it that tight, the tighter the limits the more exaggerated the map will look.

  18. Thanks I hadn't noticed this, I suppose I would have to switch to a BLtouch and get a stealthburner or find some way to make the hall effect sensor work a direct drive mount on the existing toolhead

  19. I would need to modify it to fit the N3 but I have an adapter for the N2 that mounts a Stealthburner, suppose you could also replace the carriage with an E3 carriage and use the E3 adapter also. Or print a whole carriage, though I'm not sure one exists or if it would need to be designed. I have a dual bowden StealthBurner on my Neptune 2D that works great. I'm happy to help with ideas and firmware etc if you need help :)

  20. Thanks! Interesting about the stealth burner on the 2D, did you find better performance over the stock hotend? I had read the 2D was a bit of a disappointment on launch.

  21. I've had great luck with the 2D, the StealthBurner has definitely been an improvement with the Revo hotend I decided to use.

  22. The V6 nozzle have longer threads which may cause issues for you, best case scenario it just makes the nozzle stick out of the heat block further and you lose a few mm of vertical print volume, worst case you end up with leaking filament and a ruined hotend. Might work ok but proceed with caution.

  23. Fuck yeah, bro. I'm working on designing a system for X and Z linear rails and I'm totally doing this also.

  24. Octoprint doesn't run on the printer itself, it runs on a separate device like a raspberry pi and controls the printer via usb.

  25. Forgive me for being stupid, but I can't seem to get the get the firmware the firmware to update with the .bin and dwin_set on the SD card, it will display the updating FW message but it looks the same after and still says V 1.02 firmware. What am I doing wrong?

  26. Did you try the newest dwin_set from here:

  27. The Neptune 2 on elegoo's stock firmware also didn't have pid enabled by default, on if you changed it in elegoo.txt or were running the updated marlin firmware.

  28. From what I read, it was programmed as “bam bam” or something and you had to change it.

  29. Heat it up and use a real wrench or socket and not that cheap piece of sheet metal that came with the printer that poses as a "wrench" also when possible check the piece of Capricorn tube inside the hotend for discoloration or melting/ clogs/ etc, you should have spares that came with the printer and if you run out just make sure you cut the new ones square and that they are long enough that they are being compressed between the top of the heatsink and the nozzle. This will help keep your nozzle from leaking filament.

  30. You might check the baby stepping setting in configuration_adv.h and see if always active is enabled.

  31. Are you using my firmware or Trey's? On mine baby stepping is always available not just while printing.

  32. Thanks for the suggestion I was able to configure it easy peasy on ras pi os.

  33. I didn't realize how simple it was until I had already installed MainsailOS and was using it to add Fluidd and Klipperscreen. Such a great tool.

  34. You could try setting up WireGuard on a PiVPN OS first. Then you could copy the configuration to your MainsailOS image.

  35. Just got wireguard configured on raspberry pi os easy peasy, now to install klipper, etc via kiauh :)

  36. Nothing wrong with Tailscale IMO, but you may need to add `net.ipv4.ip_forward = 1` to sysctl.

  37. I did uncomment net.ipv4.ip_forward = 1 in sysctl.conf and I was using wireguardconfig.com and did a copy / paste so that doesn't seem likely but I can check again. I'm wondering if it's something to do with not having a root account, when I try to cd /etc/wireguard it returns permission denied but I can vi /etc/wireguard/wg0.conf without error.

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