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  1. You can use it in A and M modes for sure.

  2. thank you! ok so this is an r mount (I wasn't even sure) and I can only use R lenses then. Gotcha.

  3. Look for so called 3-cam (all three cams) or 3rd-cam ("R-camera only" designation on lens barrel) lenses. Only these will work fully with your body.

  4. Leica IIIa, most probably made between 1935 and 1939

  5. Is it the F2SB meter head? (Silicon Blue meter cells instead of CDS).

  6. It's F2AS type DP-12 prism (but same silicon photodiodes metering as in F2SB).

  7. Idk, your shots look good to me. Maybe just needs a bit more of a boost in saturation. You can correct for skin tones, and maybe shoot 1/3 - 2/3 over to get a bit more out of the shadows like you’ve shown if you’d like. Remove some blue from the shadows in the curves.

  8. Even the mask of the negatives (or lack of it) is very similar to Metropolis. Thing is, the current photos by OP are very different from NC500 samples provided by Orwo a while ago. And it does not seem like a scanning variation to me.

  9. Bad news - it's fungus. Good news - it's actually not on the lens element, but on the additional transparent lens cover (Olympus AF-1, right?). If there's a way to get rid of the cover, you'll have a clean lens.

  10. Thought about it for a while too, but there's a metal shutter in this Contax.

  11. Not OP here, but you're probably right. Some bent in the metal and there you go

  12. Shutter capping, typically occuring at higher speeds, like 1/500-1/1000

  13. They are pretty much equal in IQ, perhaps the newer F2.4 has a little better coating, but that could be visible only in certain photographic situations (against the light, less flare, etc.). If the F2.8 is "zebra" type or later, you'll not see a big difference with the F2.4.

  14. Yeah, it’s just 127 not 127mm (think how big that would be). Anyway 127 isn’t really made anymore so if you do find any it will be long since expired. I’d just buy a 35mm or 120 camera and use the brownie to display.

  15. Actually 127 is still in production by Ilford (HP400) and a Japanese company (ReraPan b&w 100s&400 and chrome). Other that these you can also find handspooled rolls for sale online or cut 120 film to 127 size yourself with a specialized device.

  16. I'd start by shooting normally. If indeed the film was properly stored, chance is bigger it keeps parameters. If needed, you'll know how to adjust exposure for the rest of the photos upon developing the first one. Most likely, the color balance can be tad off, less so the film sensitivity.

  17. Olympus AF-1 Super - same 2.8/35 lens as in "cult" mju-2 camera, but much more affordable.

  18. Second one is made in Japan, whereas the first comes from China and may be of tad lower quality wide open. In general use they both will deliver though.

  19. You have Quantum battery module attached, so what you need in current config is a working Quantum Battery 2. Other power options for Metz 45 are: holder for AA batteries or rechargeable battery cluster.

  20. Will any work, or is a certain one required?

  21. I don’t think I’ve ever even seen one! The most common ones you can find here are bitten down Summicrons, Really bad shape Elmarits and the odd Zoom like a Vário-Elmar 28-70 for 300 or 400€… It’s a shame third party manufacturers never made R lenses and I don’t even think Leica must have made that many either.

  22. You can also try Tamron SP Adaptall series lenses with Leica R adapter.

  23. it's same as CineStill 400d. they both used Kodak 5207 movie film as the base, and removed rem-jet, so you can process by c41 instead of ecn2

  24. I purchased film called Reto Amber D400 which is also based on Kodak Vision3 250d but remjet-free for C-41 process. So apparently we have couple of similar negatives on the market now. The one I bought is made in China BTW. Didn't have yet a chance to use mine though.

  25. Shutter capping. Typically occurs at higher speeds (1/500-1/1000).

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